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Windows: If your baptistry
has the factory-installed plexiglass window in it, be careful
that the protective paper coating does not get
"cooked" on. This happens if the paper is
exposed to direct sunlight or heat for an extended period of
time. If the baptistry is moved into your building and
installed within a reasonable period of time, this will not be
a problem. If, however, the baptistry is to be stored
for some time before installation, be sure it is stored in a
cool place (not exposed to sunlight). You might even
consider removing the protective paper; protecting the
plexiglass window with a soft cloth, until installation is
completed.
While the plexiglass window in your unit is
extremely strong, it is very easily scratched. NEVER
scrub it hard with anything. Even a soft cloth
will leave scour marks if rubbed hard enough. Always
clean the windows gently with a soft cotton cloth and a mild
liquid cleaner. Trim and bracing
must touch only the gray rim around the window. Do not
touch plexiglass with anything. Failure to heed this
warning could result in a broken window seal and water leaks.
Framing: The Baptistry is
designed to sit flat on the floor. The baptistry bottom
(floor) may be bedded in sand to facilitate leveling and/or
draining. Under no circumstances should the baptistry
be framed up in such a way that it is suspended off the floor,
hanging by the perimeter lip, at the top of the baptistry.
Drain
Fittings: All our baptistries are
built with an essentially flat floor. However, there
will always be a few spots in the floor that are slightly
higher or lower than the rest of the floor. In order to
determine the lowest point of the baptistry, you should first
place it in the exact position it will be in when finished.
Next, pour 2 or 3 gallons of water into it. Cut your
drain hole where the water is the deepest, so as to get the
best drainage.
Heaters:
When installing your heater and pump, do not route the
cold water fill line through them. The heater and/or
pump operate on their own closed water circuit and have
nothing to do with any other plumbing lines.
There are two openings in your heater/pump:
an inlet and outlet. These
openings must be completely covered with water before the
heater is turned on. If the power is turned on before
then for even thirty seconds, you stand a very good chance of
burning out both the heater and the pump.
Pumps: The front part of
the pump which has the 1/2" inlet and outlet is called
the volute. The outlet of the volute (the male threaded
part) is easily broken if dropped or over-torqued. When
installing the pump, unscrew the four wingnuts that hold the
volute in place and remove it. Now you can work with it
without the heavy pump motor jarring up and down. Use
teflon tape on the threads and tighten all fittings on the
volute only until they are snug. Don't over-do it.
After the heater and volute have been mounted on the baptistry,
the motor can be reinstalled onto the volute.
Automatic
water level control: When hooking
up the incoming water line; do not use any sealant.
Sealant will prevent proper operation.
Maintenance: If the water
is to be kept in the baptistry for extended periods of time,
it will be necessary to treat the water just as if it were a
swimming pool. Left unchecked, bacteria and algae can
build up to the point that you will have trouble with water
discoloration or slime on the surface of the baptistry or
water...maybe both. In severe cases, the algae can cause
ugly black spots on the baptistry and may even damage the
gel-coat.
Consult a local swimming pool supply dealer.
He will know what kind of water you have in your area and what
additives will work best.
Cleaning: When you need to
clean the baptistry, never use a harsh scouring powder or pad.
Always use a liquid cleaner and a soft cloth. Rinse
thoroughly with clean water. Waxing
is recommended to protect the finish.
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